Rising to a height of 9000 feet it dominates the region. On its slopes the Israeli’s ski in the winter and at the top we are told is an Israeli military post when they can see 5 capitals, Beirut, Damascus, Ammon, Jerusalem and Cairo.

Today we will not drive up Mt. Hermon but stop at its base and visit one of the most beautiful national parks in Israel. We’ll walk along a rapidly flowing stream of crystal clear water flowing among the trees. At one point we can take off our shoes and walk in.

Suddenly we find ourselves facing the solid rock of Mt. Hermon. To our surprise, we realize the stream is not run off from Mt. Hermon but actually pours out of the mountain as a huge spring. We are at Caesarea Philippi.

We are intrigued by the remains of an ancient religious site called Panias. Initially it was dedicated to the Greek god “Pan” whose worshippers were so uncontrolled they were said to be in a state of Panic. But why did they worship here?

The answer is in the huge hole we see in the face of Mt. Hermon. Although it is now relatively shallow, it was once a deep cavern which the worshipers of Pan called “the gates of hell”. It was believed spirits of hades came and went from it.

In time, Herod the Great’s son, Philip established this site as the capital of his tetrarchy and renamed Panias as Caesarea in honor of Caesar. By the time of Christ it was called Caesarea Philippi and images to several gods were hewn into the rock.

Sitting under a tree by the cool water, our eyes will focus on the gates of hell we will read the only reference to this place in the life of Christ. In Matthew 16 we read that it was here Christ took His disciples for a break from active ministry and sitting where we are sitting asked them “Who do men. . . and who do you say that I am”. We can almost hear Peter say “You are the Christ, the Son of the Living God” and Christ say “on this Rock I will build my church and the gates of hell will not prevail against it”.

Our minds will race to grasp and appreciate what is being said and why Christ came here to sit in front of the “gates of hell” to promise the building of His church. Wasn’t He afraid of the “gates of hell”? Wouldn’t it have been safer to express this at the temple in Jerusalem? Suddenly it dawns on us.